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Sunday, October 27, 2019

TCS Amsterdam part 2 - The medal that brought trouble

TCS Amsterdam part 2 - The medal that brought trouble


Strike Three
“Three phenomenon at once!”
That was my sigh as I opened up the curtains and looked out the windows at ten on this Saturday.  It was shining.  I could see the brightness of the sun hit the white student hostels just across the road from my sitting position.  And secondly, it was raining.  The droplets were slowly staining my window pane and kind of blocking my view of the outside.  And finally the third occurrence… the large rainbow was prominently colouring the sky, in the background just behind the student hostel blocks.  

The view was spectacular from my sitting position.  It was only spectacular because my room heater was on, at about 32 degrees, the windows were tightly closed and the cold out there was only in my imagination.  The winter was on its way.  Eight weeks ago, the trees and shrubs were green.  Hardly two months later, the few remaining leaves of the trees and shrubs were now coloured yellowish-orange.  The once dense leaves had mostly fallen off to the ground, littering the undergrowth with layers of dead leaves.  These were becoming an eyesore on the tarmacked parking spaces.  It made them leafy-dirty.  

The branches of trees and shrubs were now becoming more visible – actually they were becoming skeletons of the plants that were there before.  At this rate, it would not be more than a month before there was no leaf left on anything.  Even my favourite forest area, where I do my runs, visible on the left background from my sitting position, was starting to turn yellowing from its usual dark green.  Whether the forest shall also shed off to a skeleton remains to be seen.  

I am already taken aback….

I had intended to sleep early after the marathon.  I did not.  My host was having an African party in NL.  Apart from Dori whom I already knew from that trip to the marathon and James from Kenya who co-shared the apartment, I had to opportunity to meet another three guests.  Two gents from Kenya, whom I learnt were both graduate students, and one lady, Loraine.  We just sat at the dinner table, dinner going on, and talked about dis-and-dat for over two hours.  The house cleared around eleven.  I slept past midnight.  

The house was empty when I woke up Monday morning, past ten.  Fay and James had already left for school.  I was scheduled to visit a friend at Amersfoot, two trains away.  However, my day become uncertain when the person that I was to visit cancelled at the last minute, due to unavailability.  I just stayed indoors until evening, when I was taken around a tour of the University of Wageningen, a life science university.  To be politically correct, sorry, academically correct, the place is called Wageningen University and Research (WUR).  However, there is political correctness to this name, since I learn that the place is a merger of a university and research institute.  

At 100-year of existence as at 2018, the institution was surely well established.  At the walk of fame, a paved walkway of about fifty-metres, I saw at least three Nobel laureates associated with that university.  Not far this, there is a work of art, the giant ‘water beetle’, that is flying without moving, on top of the water, just next to a pedestrian walkway bridge.  In the water, under the beetle, one can clearly read the illuminated sign – “Must leave”

“It is getting dark, We must leave,” I tell Fay.
It is already dark, though it is hardly seven in the evening.
“It is cold, can you feel it?”
“This is nothing,” I respond, “I can shed my jacket and survive this place.  Norway is twice this cold.”

I take some time thinking of that beautiful beetle that is flying but not moving, even as we walk back. The symbolism of having to fly away from the usual habitat really gets me.



Night in the morning
I was to sleep early in readiness for my early morning travel back to Amsterdam, then back home.  However, I found myself just typing on the keyboard for my stories until I realized that it was way past midnight.  I surely had to sleep, or otherwise risk oversleeping on one of my many changeovers planned for the next day as I travel.

It was Tuesday morning before I knew it.  I left the apartment when it was still dark.  I was not very sure of the route to take, especially from the apartment to the stage.  I was just getting familiar with the geography.  Fay showed me to the walkway outside the house.  James had said his goodnight and goodbye the previous evening.  

I was now on my own.  The timing from now henceforth had to work like clockwork.  Any missed travel or missed connection would spell my doom.  I was only wary of missing my first bus stage.  If I got to this bus stage, then I was surely making it to Schiphol.  I walked from the apartment with apprehension.  It was still dark, but the streets were well lit.  It was cold, but comparatively, not as cold as the North.

Led by pure instinct and self-belief, I made my way through the residential estate and found myself at the bus stage.  It was now 6.25am.  I was waiting for the 6.30am bus no. 88.  I found one other person waiting at the stage.  Another person, suitcase in tow, would soon join us.  

The three waited for the bus at Bushalte Bornsesteeg and were swiping in at 6.30am.  
“I am making it home,” I sighed as I took a seat in the well-lit bus.
Getting this bus at this time was the only hurdle, which had now been overcome.  The rest was going to be smooth.

I was settling down to the quiet boring ride, when I remembered that there was ‘internet in de bus’.  I quickly searched the wifi on my phone, got the one ‘in de bus’ and was soon catching up on my route planner and other quick info.  

I alighted at Ede at 6.48am and swiped out of the bus, then crossed over to the train station in the next block.  I recall seeing a fare charge of about Euro 2.44 on the small screen of the swiping machine just as I alighted from that bus.
“Two-hundred and eight shillings?  For a 8k distance!,” I Kenyan-thought about it even as I headed to the train platform.

I swiped into the train platform and was ready for the train at Platform 3.  The display monitors overhang at the platform updated us that the train was expected at 6.56am.  The train actually arrived at 7.00am.
I remembered that final warning from Fay, “Do not get to first class... Unless you want to pay double”

Two is better than one
I looked around for a coach labelled ‘2’ and got in, then perched myself on the upper deck.  It was still dark outside despite being seven already.  The upper deck was virtually empty.  I found only one other person on the deck that could sit twenty of so.  I sat next to a window and started peering out in the dark.  I could occasionally see street lights and vehicle headlights somewhere in the background as the silent train went along.

It did not take long to remember that I was entitled to ‘internet in de train’.  I once again searched my phone for the train wifi, clicked on a button that I assumed meant ‘OK’ or ‘Continue’, and there I was online.  Journey planning, WhatsApping, checking mail and catching up with the going-ons in the world.  But that online presence would not last long, since I would soon hear the first English announcement in the whole of the hour trip.  

Before that particular announcement, I had heard some station names being mentioned in the midst of Dutch announcements, whenever the train approached the four intermediate stations – Driebergen-Zeist, Utrecht Centraal, Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA and Amsterdam Zuid.  I especially remember ArenA as the place with that big Ajax Amsterdam stadium.  Now finally, the English announcement was loud and clear, “We are now getting to the last stop at Schiphol airport.  All are asked to alight”

I double checked my two phones as I got off the train.  I recalled that after the Sunday marathon, while on the train back from Amsterdam to Ede-Wageningen, I did lose my phone.  At some point, I had tapped my pockets while perched up on that decker, seated on one side, with Fay and Dori opposite.  We were chatting while the train pulled at my back.  I had decided to check on my ‘smaller’ phone to see if it was capable of the free wifi.  That is when I had noted that I did not have it.

“I cannot find my phone!,” I told the gals, “I believe that I must have lost it somewhere in Amsterdam.”
There was puzzlement.
“Are you sure? Check your pockets!”
“I have!  There is nothing!”
“Are you sure you had it today?”
“Positive.  I even remember viewing the stats from Runkeeper after the run.  I for sure had it upto the point when you went to have your medal engraved outside the stadium.”

I was already resigned to losing it already.  There was no chance of finding it, in case it had fallen somewhere on the route since end of marathon.  I had walked so many paths since the finish.  

In consolation, I stated that, “I only worry about my bank app.  I cannot transact without it.  And I cannot replace it until I can call my bank... whom I cannot call until I get back to Kenya... which I cannot do for some time!”

Out of desperation, I decided to send a text message to the phone, using my other phone with the Endomondo.  The sms just indicated that the phone was lost and if someone found it then the person should communicate to my email address.  Desperation, I told you.  Then….
Beep beep!
Beep beep!
All the three looked around, as we heard the vibration alert, as the sms-received-notification sounded from somewhere on the floor under my seat!


Reality check
Back to the moment.  It was exactly 8.00am when I got out at Platform 4 and took the escalator to the upper floor.  I did a final swipe out of the system and saw a charge of Euro 16.20 for that one-hour train ride.  I ‘Kenyan-thought’ about this eighteen-hundred shillings charge, and just shook my head as I headed to the ‘Departures’ gate of Schiphol.  It was a second time in one hour that I was doing such a ‘thinking.  My thoughts are momentarily distracted by that big twenty-five meter long “I amsterdam” sign, laid down on the tarmac just outside Schiphol on my right, just outside the building.  Each letter is like two-meters in height.  I remember pondering whether it was “I am amsterdam” or I misread it?

I subconsciously keep moving forward and get myself at the terminal.  Getting through the airport was smoother than I thought.  I walked the long distance to my gate and queued for security check.  While I passed through the metal detector scanner without incidence, my bag failed me for yet another time – the second time in 4-days!  My shoes and laptop successfully passed through the scanner and I would soon be receiving them on the conveyor belt out of the scanner.  I put on my shoes and picked up the laptop to now await the bag.  However, my bag was redirected to a conveyor belt that led to another security person.  

I saw some lady receive the bag at the end of that conveyor belt.  I followed in that direction to await my fate.
“%@(*S#@#!,” she said.
“I do not understand,” I responded.
“Is this your bag sir?”
“Yes”
“I want to check inside, can you open?”

I moved next to the table where the bag had been placed in a tray.  We were standing on either sides of the table.  I started opening the big zip of the main bag.  Clothes were clearly visible.  She motioned a ‘close that one’ message.

“How about here,” she pointed to the top zipped compartment.  The small one where I would usually keep small handy items such as keys, money, cards and other small emergency items.  It was a strange place to be checked.  I unzipped the small purse and removed the small items.  USB cables, keys, some money, ATM cards, then… 

Then I finally removed the TCS Amsterdam marathon medal with its blue lanyard and gold.
“Yes, this is it!” she said, causing a pause to my movement.  She took possession and looked at the medal.

I was surprised, waiting.  Unsure.  About to bolt!  Did these TCS people deliberately set me up!  Could it be real gold?
I then observed both relief and disappointment on her face.  Relief probably due to the apparent lack of a dangerous situation, but disappointment due to the unlikelihood of a big bust!  We just regarded each other.

Finally, she broke the stalemate, “This medal showed on the scanner.”
“I am just from the marathon,” I said for lack of a better statement.
“OK, you can close the bag and take it,” she said while handing back the medal with her gloved hands.
“It is OK.”
“OK, but I know you can outrun me!”
I just smiled at that.  My legs were too painful at the moment.  I could not outrun anybody for the next three days.  I kept this secret to myself.

Stuck on tarmac
Apart from a change of boarding gate for the KLM Citihopper flight, nothing eventful happened thereafter.  However, this change of gate at Schiphol was happening for the third time at this facility with the same airline.  Maybe that was the norm.  I had already learnt not to trust the gate number indicated on the boarding pass.  This would likely mislead you to the extent of missing out on your flight.  Just trust the display screens.  

Events would start unfolding when we boarded at 9.45am ready for the 10.00am departure.  It is then that we found ourselves stuck.  We just sat in the Embraer 190, a 100-seater that was full to capacity, and waited as 10.00am came and went.  We were just stationary, waiting for the start of our about 750km flight North, on top of the Atlantic ocean – actually the North Sea.  We had boarded this plane ‘deep’ in the tarmac, having taken a bus from the boarding gate to the plane’s parking position somewhere isolated in the parking tarmac.
“Ladies and Gentlemen, expect delay in departure by about twenty-minutes.  We are advised that the skies are busy today.”

“Now what do to?,” I asked myself, “Even a simple bus has internet, for crying out loud!,” I cried out loud as I sat there, next to the window, top of the wings, with no internet and no story book.  Just staring at the long fifteen-metre right wing, with a single engine beneath it.  Wondering of the marvels of aviation.  Wondering if we shall ever leave NL.

I did not wonder for long.  We taxied off at 10.15am and joined the long queue waiting to access the main runway.  Our time to join the runway came and we left at 10.25am and cruised mostly at 550km/h in the cloudy skies.  We touched down at Stavanger Lufthavn Sola at 11.38am, for a 3-minute taxing.  We disembarked and walked to the terminal building and got out of the terminal in less than 3 minutes.  

Of course, I did not have check-in luggage and hence did not have to wait for anything at the luggage claim.  However, I vote Sola as the most efficient airport in the world!  But read that again.  The size of the airport in terms of passenger traffic could determine efficiency – the smaller the better.  While at it, we have bigger ones that are efficient and we also have bigger ones that are not.  I am not naming names.  

Reality check
The carefree feelgood moment of speedy clearing would not last long.  Things would change as I got to the Kolumbus bus no. 42 at the door of the arrivals gate, ready for my trip to UiS.  I would have a change of bus at Sandnes, where I would either get an X60 or a no. 6.  Since I was paying cash, I had to pay up NOK 57 for the hour ticket, instead of the normal NOK 37 (KShs.370) if I had got a ticket from a ticket machine.  I am pained when paying 370/=.  You can imagine how 570/= feels like!  I am even lucky that I remembered to carry some Kroner.  I normally would have just had a credit card on such a travel.  This time luck was on my side because….

I got into the bus just as the person in front of me was in negotiations with the driver.  He was also an arriver.  
“You take credit card?,” he asked.
“No.  Cash only!”
“How about Euros?”
“No.  Kroner only!”
“So, what to do?  I only have credit card and Euros!,” he showed the driver his wallet.
“I don’t know.  I am just a driver!”

That was quite a welcome for this fellow traveler, as he was forced to disembark, uncertainty in each of his retreating footsteps.  He looked like a first-time student of sort – just my observation.  I could not think about him for long since I had trouble of my own.  Being slapped with almost double the fare was also quite a re-welcome, simply because I paid cash.  Surely, you cannot penalize passengers, where there is no chance of getting a ticket from a machine!  There is no ticket machine at the airport!  Was this ‘forced’ fare escalation a way of getting back at travelers?  What wrong have we done?


Double double
All these memories were flooding me, late into Saturday, as I was seated, looking out at the trees and shrubs that were shedding off their leaves in a hurry.  There would be no leaf left on any plant by next week!  This progression was more serious than I thought.  The weather was not relenting either.  It rains or drizzles every day.  The sun gives us the ‘luxury of its rays’ in short bursts of five minutes or so, for very few times in a day.  The outside is cold – truly cold if you were there and visibly cold by just looking out.  

I only observe how things can change.  Back home they have coined a phrase for this – ebindu bichenjanga!  Things change!  It is true.  It was just last month, September, when the sun would set down at 10pm.  I would do my runs until almost eight.  By then it would still be as bright as mid-day.  Hardly one month later and it is dark by six-thirty, pitch dark by seven!  It was just last month that it was bright by four in the morning.  Now it is dark by seven!  Surely!!  

This environment is just messing up my physiological clock.  I want home!  And the worse was yet to come, when we had to reset our clocks backward by one hour – a once-a-year event on the last Sunday of October.  I could not miss it.  I had to stay awake.  This was surely the knockout.  In Stavanger, this ‘extra’ hour was handed down at 3.00am early Sunday morning.  Imagine having an occasion when your clock reads 3.00am, then one hour later, it reads 3.00am again!.  What a night it was!  I could not sleep a wink.  I had to see this double 3.00 with my own double eyes, as I missed the Nairobi International Marathon on this same Sunday, for the first time in ten years.  How I shall miss the other once-a-year event, on the last Sunday in March when NO shall ‘lose’ 1hour as clocks are forced one hour ahead, as 2.00am is forced to be 3.00am!

It is a Sunday when Team KE was running the Nairobi city marathon, while I was appreciating a personalized e-magazine from TCS, with my pictures and videos and all.  Back home it was a street run in the city, with sweat and sweet joy of running – over here it was a relaxed seat in a heated room, with online results and online certificate.  Just another Sunday with everyone doing their runs – onstreet or online.

WWB - the Coach - Stavanger, Norway, Sunday, Oct. 27, 2019

Monday, October 21, 2019

TCS Amsterdam 2019 marathon - beat the crowd... if you can

TCS Amsterdam 2019 marathon - beat the crowd... if you can




Just in time
I took an early sleep for the first time in almost a year, since the next day was a big run day.

I woke up on Sunday, October 20, very aware that it was a national holiday back home.  I would usually be celebrating the holiday with a long holiday rest.  Not today.  I was having an early morning breakfast at six-forty-five, ready to leave at seven.  Our duo would soon be joined at Bornsesteeg stage near Wageningen Uni by our third team member, Dori.  Bus number 88 soon arrived.  It was still dark despite being just past seven.  

One swipe of our travel cards on that bus took us to Ede Wageningen, a 15-minute travel on bus.  We walked the short distance to the next block, passed through the underground route and emerged on the other side of the train platform.  We swiped a second time, ready to get a train to ‘somewhere near Amsterdam’.  The train soon arrived and the three got in and travelled for over forty-five minutes.  We got out at some point, swiped out, and walked downstairs to the next train platform to wait for a ‘Metro’, read ‘city train’.  It was just past eight.  

At our underground platform of Amstelstation we did take the first train that came by – of course after card swipe.  This electric took off, with most people in it just standing.  But it did not take long.  I had hardly started to enjoy the ride when…
“Wait a minute?  This does not seem like the right direction!”
“What da-ya mean?,” I asked.
“This Metro is going in the opposite direction.  We have to get out!”

We were out at the next station.  Dori was like, “Fay, you mean you don’t know the right train?”
“Of course, I do.  It is number 51, I just got it wrong.  Was in a hurry,” she responded, and turning to me, “Make sure you do not write this on your blog.”
“I won’t,” I told her, “A long distance runner has so much in their mind to even remember such small details.  I am now just thinking of the starting line.  Just get us there in good time.”
“I will,” she said.

Zipping up
The 51 was soon snaking onto the platform, and it took us speedily towards Amstelveenseweg, the stage near the Amsterdam Olympic Stadium.  It was full and continued being full.  It was a standing train and was now mostly a marathoners train.  We had a light moment when at some train stop one passenger got in while his colleague was locked out of the door, with the train ready to go.  The person in had to force the door open for the colleague to get in.  It was a smileful moment.  But the ride was short and we would soon be disembarking.

The exit swipe-out points were congested, as the big multitude of runners jostled to get out of the train station.  It was just past nine.  The stadium gates were to be closed at 9.15am.  By that time all marathoners who intended to do the 42 should have crossed the gates into the stadium – or stay out.  We did not come from KE to stay out of the stadium.  Getting in was a must!

We did that last titration, at the portable washrooms just outside the stadium, before start of marathon.  It was a strange observation that the men had ‘an open’ urinal just there, next to the portables, just next to our queue.  I could just see men assemble at this circular station that can stand four people, and just unzip!  Just there – in full view, before adults, children, men, women and sundry.
“Surely!  This ain’t right!,” I commented to Fay and Dori.
Dori just laughed it off, feeling shame-on-herself.  Fay was not even hearing anything.  She wanted to get over with all this and be at the stadium before closure.  It was now 9.13am, and the people in the four cubicles did not seem to be in any hurry to do their thing.  We just waited.

We dashed to the full stadium – full at the stands – full on the pitch – making it just around 9.17am.  The gate was not yet closed.  
“I have to go, see you later.”
“You dash to your Pink area.  I shall join my Green,” Fay responded.

The runner numbers had been printed with some colour-coded strips, just below the run number – white for invited athletes and those intending to run in upto 2h 40min, Yellow for those who can run under 3hrs, Pink for those intending to run between 3hr and 3hr 30min, Orange for those intending to run 3hr 30min to 4.00 and Green for those intending run in the 4.00 to 4.30 range.  There was even a Blue for those over 4.30 but upto the maximum time limit of 6-hours.


The marathon medal (picture courtesy of Fay)


Colourcoded
The ‘White’ and ‘Yellow’ were let to leave at 9.30am.  And I later learnt that the official timing started at that time.  After their exit, the Yellow and Pink assembled at the starting line, rather, assembled at half of the stadium track, waiting to be allowed out.  At 9.35am, this combined group was let out of the stadium.  

I assume that the next Orange group was let out at 9.40am, but I shall not know because I was out when the 9.35am run started inside the Olympic Stadium.  The stadium track heading out of the stadium was full of athletes.  Running was almost impossible – overtaking was completely impossible!  We just started off walking and slowly jogged out of the stadium.  By the first kilometer the road width had even thinned out and runners had to stop and wait for the crowd of runners ahead to fit themselves onto the narrow road, before we resumed our walk.  There was no much run possible for the first 15km – and that to me was the undoing of this run!

I had to lookout for an open space, usually at the edge of the road, and sprint ahead on such a gap for some 100-meters or so, before being blocked once more for over five minutes.  I would do another sprint whenever the opportunity presented itself, only to be completely blocked once again by the crowd ahead.  This style of running was really usurping my energy.  The run was supposed to be evenly-paced and evenly-ran.  This was not happening – and these short bursts of high energy was starting to waste me.  

Things would improve on the 15km mark when we started going around the long river.  Fay had corrected me that similar reclamations were canals, not river, though this long stretch was surely the Amstel river.  I was not sure whether this was a river or a canal myself.  It was too modest to be a river.  I kept referring to it as a canal – what’s the difference anyway?  It is a body of water, flowing, possibly.  What happened to ‘if it behaves like this, it is this’?  Ah, who cares? 


The marathon route (source: https://www.tcsamsterdammarathon.nl/en/)

The giants
We did the 14k to 20k on one side of this river, then we crossed the river on a footbridge to face the 20k to 26k stretch on the opposite side.  It is on this stretch of 20-26k that I saw the first traditional Dutch windmill just affixed onto a house besides the running track – static.  Majestic!  Gigantic!!.  That thing was massive.  From my estimation, each of the four fins had a radius of about 20m!  Affixed to a middle hub.  That would make a total tip to tip diameter of about 50m – a half the length of a stadium field!  Wow!  Amazing!!  If only I could take a picture?  But not when on motion aiming for a good run, in good time.

On this river we also saw a guy, and later a lady flying high over the water – they call it, eh… water jet or flyboard aruba or something – I am not sure, but it ain’t a marathon, or maybe it was an upwards marathon?.  I also saw marathoners starting to lose their senses, so I guessed, since I just noted them stopping to pee next to the road, without a care in the world of the multitude of runners moving along next to them.  Some runner seemed even ‘too tired’ and just stopped and let go at the edge of the tarmac.  I shook my head with amazement.  

This would not be the last time that I would see of such an episode.  Coincidentally, I only saw men do this.  Again, who cares?  Do what you want to do on a long run.  Just do not infringe on the rights of other runners.  This behavior was however about to cross the line, bearing in mind that each water station in 5km intervals had ‘proper’ washrooms.  But before you judge, just remember that the real marathon starts after half-marathon distance – and when it does, insanity slowly starts sneaking into each runner.  These sporadic episodes were observable after we had crossed the river.

We know you
I was still amused by what I was seeing when I was interrupted by the cheering crowd, 
“Barack!, Go! Go! Go!”
I was taken aback.  I was not expecting this.  I just waved back as I wondered how someone would know me over here.  I was 10k km from folks who knew me!  This name calling would be repeated about five or six times over the course of the run.
“But how did they know me?”
At least the person who shouted, “Kipchoge” at me knew me ‘somehow’, but the others?  Knowing me ‘exactly’?

That part of the run, the river circuit, was as smooth as expected, especially after the runners having thinned out.  We had already been given our dose of energy drink, water and chocolate cubes at 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k, 25k.  As advertised.  Without failure.  At 26k I took a washroom break!  I could not survive the rest of the journey.  From there it was more chocolates and bananas and gel at 30k and 35k, in fact from 15k we did have all these niceties.

I have already known since time immemorial that the 42k starts at 21k, but let me add that the same 42k is also lost at 36k.  That means that your 42 is determined in that 15k range.  Beat that and you have beat the marathon.  I was very careful with this range.  I was especially cognizant of the 36k.  I preserved the chocolate that I had picked at the 35k water station and bit a small piece thereafter, keeping it in the mouth to melt away, seeping up the sugars as I went along.  

In less than 5-minutes, the 36k came and went.  It was a bit smooth.  But not for few others.  I started seeing people just drop off the run, sit on the side of the road or just stop and stand or stop and start walking.  That was a very bad distance to lose your steam.  I could feel for them.  Walking the last six was not an experience you would wish even for the enemy of your enemy.  The body is by then just hit with many things at once – tiredness, muscle aches, lightheadedness, loss of focus and the shoes start pinching with every step.  

I now had to survive the last six.  Just six more and this would be over.  The trick now was just to keep going until you see the finish line.  Do not check on time.  Do not check on distance.  Do not be distracted by other runners or the cheering crowds – just keep going, focusing on the finishing line.



'The shoe' at Olympic stadium


Allez
The 40k would emerge at some point.  By then I was just thinking about the finish line.  I was not even seeing the many cheering crowds.  There was even a sign along the road with “Go Go Go Allez Allez”.  There were at least two live bands on the route.  There were live DJs in at least ten places along the route.  The various music points, DJs or otherwise were over thirty.  

I liked the DJs and their kits – their machines would usually be full decks affixed on top of some vehicle, with the DJ protruding through the roof of the same vehicle.  I remember seeing a VW beetle, VW combi, Martin Mini, some sedan that looked like a Datsun – just funny vintage cars parked along the road used to DJ.  There was even a DJ in a boat on that river circuit, or was that a pianist?  He was just there – standing next to something that was either a mixer or a keyboard – loud classical music coming from his traveling boat.  

There were also some small portable ‘music boxes’ for lack of a better word, hauled on 2-wheels, parked besides the road.  These ‘things’ were playing some form of traditional accordion-like music.  They called it ‘draaiorgel’ (barrel organ) playing ‘levenslied’ – life music.

I also learnt that as a runner you can waste so much energy checking on your timer for those splits when doing these long runs.  There is little chance of changing your achievement by simply relying on your gadgets.  Just learn to run your run, and let the gadgets confirm what you eventually did, when the run ends – my view though – as I headed for the finish, a phone on either side of the pockets of my shorts and the wrist watch on my left wrist – all the three unchecked, unattended, since I started the run.


The TCS marathon number

Interview
I was glad to (finally) see the finish line inside the Olympic stadium.  Two hundred metres was the only obstacle ahead.  This run was done!  I was happy!!  It was a good marathon.  A marathon like any other.  Just a marathon with a difference – some difficulty that I do now know from where, since the course was fairly flat.  

So, while the Kenyan took the men’s crown in 2.05.09 and our Ethiopian neighbours took the women’s gold in 2.19.26, I did bring my runner number 3518 to an end in 3.22.59 as per the analog wrist gadget that had refused, yet again to sync with the foot gadget.  Runkeeper gave me a 42.78km - 3.23.26, while Endomondo gave me a 43.25km - 3.23.13.  

We finished off as a photographer pulled me aside to get a few pics for the TCS album.  
“Barack, right?”
“Right!,”  I was facing another how-did-he-know moment when I saw him staring at my runner number.  The name was conspicuously written just above the number 3518.
“Kumbe!,” I sighed!

The Tata Consultancy Services, TCS Amsterdam marathon gave me a final official chip time of 3.22.23, and position 2289 (combined men and women) based on a ‘gun time’ of 3.27.29!  Surely!  The gun went off 5-minutes before we started!!.  You cannot allocate positions by the gun!  

Thereafter it was a queue for medals followed by polythene sheets to keep us warm – this was a first one.  Out of the stadium we did get that final Isostar 500ml energy drink and a banana, before we limped off back to the stadium to watch runners finish their races and celebrate each one of these athletes for their achievement.  Fay would soon be doing her own lap of honour as she shattered her new 42k record.  We were a happy duo celebrating our representation of team KE, team NMNM2, team IK, team KE-in-NL, team KE-in-NO, team ‘Wageni’, team 'Wageniwengi', team 'Wangige'!

It was while traveling back to Wageningen on the NS Intercity for the 1-hour travel that I saw a ticket inspector for the first time come by our sitting place on the upper deck to check on tickets.  She demanded to see the cards, upon which she would scan each on a small portable machine.  I learnt that this would show whether the ticket was initially swiped, and whether it had money to sustain the journey.  

I had already used this train twice before and there was no such check on these previous two trips.  The first one on Saturday evening was the noisy one, when we sat on the upper deck and chatted our way for one hour.  The second one in the morning of the run was strangely quiet as we travelled to the stadium.  We hardly said a word before some lady came to our sitting position of four to give us the “Shhh!,” quiet sign.  I gestured to Fay and Dori in a manner of, “What is going on here?”.  Fay would tell me in hardly audible whispers that this was a ‘silent’ coach.  

However, we were all chatty in the evening after the marathon as we travelled in the intercity towards Ede.  We were glad to be back to a normal ‘you can talk’ coach, perched on top of the decker.
“What would happen if I did not have a ticket during this inspection?,” I asked the two.
“I don’t know.  Maybe they fine you!?,” Dori stated.  
“They would fine you something like sixty-five Euro!?,” Fay responded, forgetting to add that this would be over and above the usual fare that you would otherwise pay.  The normal fare was about 15 Euro per train ride for a 1-hour ride similar to ours.

WWB, The Coach, Amsterdam, Netherlands, October 20, 2019

Saturday, August 31, 2019

The Accidental 42 on top of the earth

The Accidental 42 on top of the earth


When the opportunity to participate in a marathon in the Arctic circle presented itself, I grabbed it.  Then the opportunity to do a 42k accompanied it, I jumped on it.  I had only 20-days* to actualize both.  And actualize I did. 
(*The full details of this is being crafted in ‘The Accidental Trip’ to be released Dec. 31, 2019.  If you want the raw unedited, please get in touch)

So let me jump straight to chapter twenty-eight, which details this marathon.  I had ‘somehow’ tried my best to prepare for this run, despite the short notice.  I only had three weeks and I pumped eight preparatory runs into that duration, including my second run where I got lost in the strange land and ended up doing an ‘accidental’ 21km after running round and round without getting out of the maze, until I had to gather courage, break tradition, and ask for help.  

We had already been updated that the normal tradition here is not to say nothing.  Keep quiet and keep to yourself.  I forgot to say ‘Hi’ by day 5, since no one expected it and no one responded anyway.  It was a bother they did not anticipate.  Remember that meme that one of the things that runners do is to say Hi?  They lied!  Even marathoners do not say Hello to each other when they meet out there doing their runs.  Strange, I tell you but, the Viking tradition is tradition.

During four of my preparatory runs, I did realize that it was much easier to run over here without getting as tired.  I could easily clock a 15k, just like that, when intending to do a ‘lunch-hour’ run of 13k in the evening.  Maybe it was the sea level altitude?  Maybe it was the many forested trails that were quiet, shaded and peaceful for the runs?  Maybe it was that nobody dared ‘disturb’ you with a ‘Hello?  Maybe it was the geography, just located immediately next to the north pole?  I do not know, but the run felt easier on the legs.  

The only contention that I had was being rained on while running.  It rains like daily, apart from that one-week of heat wave that was affecting Europe that did not spare this place.  Other than that, cold and rain is the order of the day, and night.  In fact, I was even glad that I was rained on during my last run before the marathon.  It would give me a feel of a rainy marathon.  The feeling was not good.  The rain was cold and the environment was cold, ending up with a chilly run, while the cold run gear was tightly caressing your body – forcing the cold onto the skin.  However, I was ready for it if it came to that.

Do not register
When I ‘accidentally’ registered for this marathon a week to the event, I was quite surprised as to how steep it could cost.  I had to pay for the marathon entry itself as $69, yes, you are not reading double, you are reading it correctly – 7k for the registration.  Then I had to pay an additional 500bob for license fee (no running without this).  When I thought that the deal would not get any better, it did get better in the worse way.  I was charged 175/= for service fee and 150/= for processing fee.  I paid a total of 7,800 bob for that run.  Paying in local Kenya shillings also meant that I had to suffer double currency conversion losses from Shillings to Dollars, then Dollars to Kroner, ending up with a total Kenyan bill of 9k!  Just for one run!! Robbers!!

There would be one final surprise – I got an email to collect my runner number from the organizer’s town center office, Radisson Blue hotel, just next to where the run would also start.  From my residence to town was about 5km, with buses plying the route every ten or so minutes.  The footnote of that email was that I should carry some $24.9 for a ‘beautiful runner Tshirt’.
Kwani how expensive is this run,” I asked the email, loudly!!

I did collect my runner no. 621, branded with my name and the Kenya flag was printed on the lower left corner of the paper, just below the word ‘maraton’.  I did not get a Tshirt.  I would run on plan B.  Who needs another Tshirt when I belong to team NMM2*?  I already had a personalized branded luminous yellow T.  While at it, I just remembered that my expenditure list would now include the cost of this trip, which was setting me back 370/= for fare, with a ticket that was valid for one hour.  After that hour, one would have to get another one of a similar amount.  This marathon was not happening.  But, it just had to happen because my bank card had been depleted dry – and I would better have something to show for it.
*Ni Mungu na Miguu Tu

Which weather?
On Friday before the marathon it had drizzled most day.  It was a cold day.  A rainy marathon was surely in the offing.  My plan to be in bed by nine so as to be fully rested for the next day’s marathon backfired when the sun ‘refused’ to set down.  How was I supposed to sleep when the sun was still shining?  It was already 10pm and the night was still daytime with sun!.  I could see everything in this daylight at ten-P.  How could I sleep in this light?  I had even formed a habit of taking dinner at mid-night, since it is around then that there would be some semblance of darkness.  My sleeps were therefore mostly in the AM.  The one before the marathon was no different.

I had hardly slept, hardly dreamt, hardly turned, when the alarm on the phone woke me up at seven.  I got out of bed, in my small two by four room that I was paying two arms and two legs for.  I gazed out of the window and it was drizzling.
“This is just great!,” I said in frustration.  

I did not want to carry a change of clothes.  I just wanted to go to town ready for the run – no changing, no changing room, no left luggage and no luggage to claim after the run.  If it did rain then I would have to be clad in a jacket and trousers for the trip to town, and inevitable left luggage to deposit, and later claim – what a bother!

A cup of ‘tea’ made from ‘Sjokoladepulver’ kicked my day.  I had started picking a few words in Norsk.  It was the only way to survive.  That ‘chocolate powder’ was one of the words in the list so far.  It was still chilly when I left the hostel block to the bus stage just four hundred meters away.  I bought a ticket from a dispensing machine for 370/= that lasts an hour and waited for a bus to town.  The distance is short, in ten minutes you are in town.  I still believe it is just 5k, a distance that I shall shame by walking through one day soon.  That would mean that the ticket is overpriced for the hour, that is my take.

By 8.35am I was at the prehistoric ‘Stavanger dormkirke’, OK, old cathedral, where the 9.00am full marathon run was to start within 30 minutes.  The half marathon would begin 40 minutes later, while the 5k was a 1330hrs event.  There was an under-10 kids run on the card, scheduled for quarter to three.  When I encountered the slowly trickling crowd of runners, I started realizing the magnitude of my current predicament.  The details of the runners had already been published online as at the previous night.

“Africa?,” I said to myself, “How can you put all this on me?”
I was the only runner from south of the Mediterranean!  That was a burden too heavy to carry.  I even thought of dropping out!  The online list of 262 full marathon runners had only me and another one from ET.  I scanned around and for sure there was no one from ET.  I was all alone to battle it out with the Norwegians for the pride of the ‘south of Med’.  Bring it on!

*The marathon route (source: http://stavangermarathon.no/en/information/ )

Off we go!
The run started promptly at nine.  There were many preamble announcements in Norsk, which I did not get.  The countdown in any language is however unmistakable.  The once cold morning had metamorphosed into a warm morning.  The only disadvantage that I faced was lack of intelligence on the route profile, route map and route condition.  I started by just following the front runners.  We started by running through city streets, but mostly on the dedicated sidewalks, usually used by pedestrians on the normal course of life.  

I observed that the run did not seem to interrupt motor vehicle traffic much, if not at all.  Life continued, and the run continued.  Hardly five minutes into the run and I would momentarily be stuck with this group that had one of them with an overhanging flag affixed to his back reading, “3:30 – 5.00 min per km”.  The information on the website had promised pacesetters for 3hr 30min, 4.00hr and 4hr 30min.  I was glad to have seen this promise fulfilled, at least for the 3.30hr.  I soon overtook that group and just kept going – gazing in front for the direction that the front runners were taking and following suite.

The run was easy going.  While we were mostly on the pedestrian walkways, the run was also mostly done on trails in forested areas and majorly around two lakes and the beachfront.  The view was marvelous.  The run was smooth.  The fear of getting lost kept speeding me up to at least have someone ahead whom I could follow along.  They promised water, they delivered water.  That was on the 5k mark.  In small paper tumblers, they handed the water or allowed runners to pick.  However, that meant having to stop, sip, take, hand back the tumbler, then resume the run.  It was a strange one.  I am used to water in bottles (of cause Kili marathon had this tumbler business, the only one in my many years).

They promised energy drink, they delivered energy drinks from the 10k interval and for every other subsequent station, generally on 5k intervals.  All the way to the finish we had now both water and energy drinks.  The liquid was quite little – just a sip, but you could get a second helping.  

The run continued.  

I was glad that my worries about being hydrated were now put to rest.  I had not carried any water and if there was none on the course then I would have been roasted.  I had my three timing gadgets, and I remember that announcement of “Thirteen kilometers in one-hour, average pace four minutes thirty-six seconds per kilometer,” as clearly as the nighttime sunshine.  I was aiming for a 3hr 30min, but with that pace… I would end up with a 3-15!  That was not meant to be.  I was just gauging the new lands!

The run starts, again
And then the marathon started.  Let me let you in on the marathon secret, the marathon starts after 21km.  That is when it starts.  Repeat, again, the marathon starts on the 21km mark.  That is the point you aim for when doing the marathon.  I saw the 21km red marker on a small paper like structure, hardly the size of a foolscap, affixed to the ground on the left of my running path.  We were just about through running around the two lakes when this marker appeared.  I had to forget that I had been running and now start running to the finish line.  If I could, I should have reset my timers, but keep this part of resetting timers for later.

They promised squeezy gel on the 23k mark, they delivered ‘squeezy energy gel’ on that mark, alongside water and energy drinks.  
“These people have memory,” I told myself since I really doubted this gel thing.

I was still struggling to break the 33g gel tube when I was drawn by these chants of, “Heia!  Heia!  Heia!
I looked to my left to see the group of kids, hardly teens, brandishing Norwegian flags and clapping along, excited.  There are runners before and after me.  I note that their “Heia!” intensifies with the approach of each runner.  I would observe many more “Heia”s on the route.  I liked it.

Talking of memory, I had one myself.  I remembered this 23k mark as exactly as I was now seeing it, a fourth time!  When I ‘got lost’ during one of those preparatory runs, I had ended up on this junction and turned back, then ran back to it twice more and turned back.  Every turn back convinced me that I was lost – and it was true.  It was so far from where I was supposed to have been running.  What a pleasant surprise to see it again!

Really?
This would not happen, I had told myself.  It is a “no way”.  But believe it or not, they promised chocolate, they delivered dark chocolate at the 27km mark, alongside energy drinks and water – energy drinks on the first table as usual.  I picked two small cubes of chocolate.  Tiredness was already creeping in, since it took me about 5km to partake my chocos – with lots of effort, both to push a piece to the mouth and then to get a munch going.

Soon I hit that beach that I knew so well – the Atlantic Ocean, which I had just touched the last weekend.  Those waters were as cold as ice.  Then!  And then there they were, on my right, the “Sverd i fjell”.  The three ten-meter metallic swords that have been fixed to the ground.  

This ‘sword in rock’ scene was a pictorial background in many selfies just last Sunday.  Now it was a run-through section as we faced the one kilometer run along the ocean front.  I would easily just cross the highway on my left and head back to my hostel some three kilometers from that point.  However, that was not happening since I had now already hit 30km and nothing, repeat, nothing was stopping me in the last 12km.

I did not have much time to strategize since… they promised bananas, and they delivered ripe bananas.  The 31km marker had about three small tables, the first one with energy drinks in small tumblers, the second with water in equally small paper tumblers, and a third with bananas, cut to pieces.  I had to stop for a mouthful of energy, then started off, banana piece in hand.  

Before long we hit the 32k mark.  I had a second flashback, attributed to the different times that I had got lost during my preparatory runs.  On that occasion, about a week ago, I had seen a red arrow marked on the tarmac pointed towards me.  I had to make a judgment call, and I thought it had something to do with prohibition, with only one-way traffic allowed.  I therefore had to do a plan B run on that day, instead of going against the arrow drawn on the tarmac.  Little did I know that it was the marathon organizers playing a trick on me.  That marking was for the full marathon route!  Cheats!!

The last 10km were already etched on my memory as per the map.  We would generally run along the oceanfront all the way back to ‘dormkirche’.

And… finally, they promised coke, and they delivered coke.  This was on the 39km mark, where we now had water, energy drink, coke and bananas.  At 39k the run is technically done.  You only have 3km and the run if finished.  But, but wait a minute, we would soon hit 40k, just like that and we now had the end in sight.  Just make a right turn somewhere in town, hit that tarmac and get to where the music was coming from.  

And here now comes the second trick of running the full marathon – the run is easily lost on the 40k.  The secret is out!  By this time you are tired and your mind is hardly working.  Your legs are just going on free.  The mind can give them a wrong signal at any time, including ‘stop’, so these last 2km are the most crucial for a recreation runner.  Master them, control them, have dominion over those two, and you shall finish the run.  


Life begins at…
When you hit 40, not age, when you hit the 40k mark, the end is surely in sight.  Every step you take makes you more tired.  The mind miscalculates everything, and gives it an exaggeration of x10.  After you have run only 100m, you feel like you have cleared a kilometer.  Run 200m and you believe that you should be finishing the run – the truth is that you have not even hit 41, not age, the 41k mark.  

Master your mind on these last two if you want to finish the run.  This is how you do it – know that you still have quite a distance to the finish line.  Do not think about the finish line, just know that it shall come ‘when the time is right’.  And that time is likely to be ten to fifteen minutes away.  It is usually that far. 

I just found myself at the finish line, since I knew that I would be there ‘when the time is right’ and the time was right at 3hr 14min 56sec as per the wrist gadget that never lets me down, though it let me down ‘kidogo’ on the distance, indicating that it was a 43.24km – still a very good account for an analogue.  

My other two gadgets ‘refused’ to be stopped after the finish line.  I took almost a minute trying to unlock the screens to get to the apps, so that I could stop them.  When I did, the Runkeeper read 3.15.35 for 42.21km.  How accurate can these digital things get!!  This was super precise, especially on the distance.  

Believe it or not, upon unlocking the screen of the second phone, the Endomondo was having that dreaded error message, “Unfortunately this app has stopped working, do you want to reset”!  Just imagine if that was my only gadget!!

The run was done.  Just like it had started, it came to an end.  There was no much pomp or funfare.  Runners were just finishing at their own pace and proceeding to leave.  I also left, just after stumbling upon James, a TZ student whom I had gotten acquainted with.  His story of this run was quite interesting, that he came in late then got lost!  He found himself towards the finishing line of a 42k run hardly 30-minutes after starting, “It was crazy, nakuambia,” he narrated, “So my marathon just ended like that.”


Extra run
The worst minutes for the runner are those 30-minutes after you hit the finish line.  While on the run you were surviving on adrenalin, and forced motion, especially the last two kilometers.  Now you are not running and there is no adrenalin, just pain on your joints and your mind coming back to full alertness.  Now it reminds you that you are not OK, that your legs are aching, that your shoe pinches somewhere, that you are tired.  

Many things are now happening to your body in real time.  However, they promised a pasta at the finish line…. and I was surprised to be handed a small plastic container with something white inside.  

I did not know how I survived the 30-minutes post run – that time when you are just moving around aimlessly.  Every muscle aches.  You are limping, you usually limp, you must limp, due to some leg ache, muscle pain or shoe strain.  However, I was back to normal by the time a got another hour ticket and got a bus back home.  

The red lanyard with white-blue-white strips holding the finishers medal was hanging around my neck.  The medal had the inscription, “Stavanger Marathon – NM 2019 – 42195 meter.”  That is soooo precise!  They need to change their slogan to ‘every meter counts’!  The reverse side of the circular metal had the wordings – “Alexander Kielland”, which had to send me back to the history books to read of the marvels of this Norsk writer.

Even as I write this story in the plain daylight of eight in the night, sorry in the daylight, I realize that ‘somehow’ I am not as tired as the runs that I have had back home, despite running the second-best time ever on that distance.  My PB stands at 03.07.51 in Nairobi, 2009.  At this rate, that record may not last long.

Updates (3-Sep-2019): Final results have been published on the organizer's website.

Helmaraton aka 42k full marathon:
Menn: 2.34.53 (ETH), 2.36.10 (NOR) and 2.38.39 (NOR)
Kvinner: 2.51.06 (NOR), 2.53.02 (NOR) and 3.05.56 (NOR)
I was position 20 overall with a time of 3.14.46 (+0.39.54 after the winner. My speed was 4m37s per km) and position 15 on the men's event.
223 runners finished the full marathon.

Helvmaraton aka 21k half marathon:
Menn: 1.09.36 (NOR), 1.10.49 (NOR) and 1.13.19 (NOR)
Kvinner:1.24.14 (NOR), 1.24.56 (DEN) and 1.31.10 (NOR)

732 participants finished this run

WWB, Stavanger, Aug. 31, 2019