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Showing posts with label Addis Ababa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Addis Ababa. Show all posts

Saturday, October 15, 2022

A tale of two Fridays 1500km apart

A tale of two Fridays 1500km apart

Unity Park Addis Ababa

Today I did my Friday run.  It was meant to be a 13k, preferable within the hour.  It neither was a 13k nor was it within the hour.  I failed in both.  I ended up stopping the timer at 17k some 1hr 26min later, tired as a rock.  It is those additional loops within the employer's compound that usually seem to be nothing that must have tricked me.  Those loops can take you upto 10min on one way.  And I know that is where the 2km additional distance per loop must have come from, adding the 4k to my bill.  And the starting loop is hilly!  Hilly I tell you.

Anyway, that is not the essence of today's story.  Though I was running that route through Kapenguria road to Mary Leakey school and Uni farm, I was not quite cognizant of much that was going on around me.  My mind had already wondered to last Friday, seven days ago…..  

On that day, last week, I woke up, rather was forced to wake up at around nine in the morning.  That 'forced' condition was necessary, because I would otherwise miss out of the breakfast bit on this BnB accommodation arrangement.  The prepaid BnB meant that a lost breakfast was surely lost, without any chance of compensation.  You either take it or miss out on it.  There is no middle ground.

There was however nothing much in the name of breakfast at that time of the morning.  All the juice brands were already all gone.  Empty vases stood on the buffet table at a place marked ‘Juices’.  I managed some coffee ‘with milk’, the ‘with milk’ part being necessary, otherwise everything is served without, unless you specify explicitly.  

I also managed an omelette with chili, that did not have any chilies anyway.  I also scooped some firfir.  Firfir being pieces of injera prepared in such a manner as scrambled eggs, tasting as sour as ever, but milder than the real injera roll.  I was however now getting used to injera.  There was nothing else on that purported breakfast buffet.  Maybe it was not much on this Friday, or I was just late for breakfast.  In fact, they started clearing the breakfast things while I was still seated, yet it was hardly nine-thirty.

We had on the previous day already setup a ten o’clock visit to Unity Park at the Addis Ababa city centre.  It was a holiday for the staff over here.  The rules of employment over here gives the staff an extended holiday on Friday or Monday, provided an official holiday fall on a Saturday or Sunday respectively.  So, Maulid holiday was on Saturday, October 8, and so was this Friday a holiday.

Sharon and Rachel were to pick the Kenyan team of Rose and I on this Friday.  I moved from my C48 hostel block room and walked four doors along the corridor towards C44.  I knocked the door as I passed by, beckoning Rose to move towards the parking yard where we were to meet the hosts.

I found Rachel in her car, a white Mazda, left hand driven, as per convention over here.  She was in distress, even as I opened the front door right side seat.
“Imagine Sharon not come and she switch phone off,” she greeted me, not even looking in my direction.
“Hello there yourself.  The day is not as hot,” I responded, ignoring her anguish.
“This girl Sharon!  I no longer her friend.  She let me down.  I not want hear her!”
She continued starring ahead through the windscreen.  She was completely mood less.

Soon Rose would join in and seat just behind me.  We were ready to go.
“Where is Sharon?  Do we wait for her?,” Rose asked.
I answered for Rachel who was not in any more mood to discuss the runaway companion, “Sharon did not make it, and she seems unreachable on phone.  We shall have to go without her.”

We left the hostel block admin office parking lot and drove out, keeping right as we headed toward the B-gate.
“Selamta,” the sentry greeted the car.
“Selam,” Rachel and I responded, almost in unison.  Rose kept quiet.  It was her first time traveling to Ethiopia.  She was still getting used to the language.

We soon joined the main roads and started moving around to unknown roads.  She just drove and drove and drove.  It took us about thirty minutes of driving before we came to a stop.
“We park car here.  We walk to park there,” Rachel instructed, pointing ahead, as we disembarked.

We walked some one hundred or so metres and were soon at Unity Park.  We could see the military personnel guarding the massive gate and generally all around the compound fence.  There was a side entrance that we had to pass through, with the big gate being the exit point.  We bought our tickets at that side entrance.  We had already been prepared for this, with Rachel having already informed us the previous day that we would be charged Birr 1,050 each since we were non-nationals.  I believe that Rachel was entitled to half the fees.  

Rachel collected the 21 red notes from me, and another 21 red ones from Rose, that I had to count for her.  Rachel added the 42 notes to her own money.  She gave the big bundle of notes to the ticket person.  We got a single ticket for three, which Rachel momentarily handed over to another staffer in exchange for temporary paper armbands.  Each of us stretched a hand and the band was affixed to the arm.  The red armband read, “Unity Park - Regular”.  The Ethiopian flag was printed along the length of the strip, so was the map of Africa in the image of a fist.

We then moved to the security clearance desk.  We were asked to remove our belts, shoes, all metallic items and then go through a metal detector.  The rest of the items removed and put on trays went through a luggage scanner and emerged through the other end of it.  This was similar to the motions you go through at an airport.  

While awaiting my items on the other side of the conveyor, I did get a callback, while the ladies had already been cleared.
“What be this?,” the guard asked, pointing at an item on the tray.
“Viewing lens, for looking at things from far,” I responded.
He consulted his colleagues in Amharic, while pointing at the monocular.  After a half a minute or so, I got my response, “This not allow, so we keep here, then you take when leave”

Our trio walked past the security clearance area and moved towards the imposing gate.  We met a couple of bride and groom, unmistakably in their wedding attire, also getting through the gate.  We received a map of the park, an A3 paper folded into two to create four pages of information.  The middle section of the paper had a big map of the park.  The front and back pages contained some assorted pictures of the various parts of the park.  

I also learnt from Rachel, who was now quite cheered up after the morning moods, that this compound was also the current Prime Minister’s residence.  She said that occasionally some visitors to the park are lucky enough to see Abiy.  Now I could connect the dots between the security check and the visit.

Unity Park Addis Ababa

We were informed by the person handing over the map to ‘follow arrow and go round arrow’.  There was almost a circular path around the park that would take you from gate back to gate, if you followed it religiously.  Of course, you could change course and go around in any direction or even turn back to the gate and exit.  We decided to ‘follow arrow’.  The very first passage was through the ‘lion’s den’!  That den was a real lion’s den, with all the lion noises and all.... and finally, even a live lion lying on the grass patch across the glass window was visible.

We survived the black lion zoo and went through other sections, including traditional houses and the botanical settings of the indigenous plants garden.  At some point we went into the emperor’s throne house.  And the first person that you meet seated at the throne is.... you guessed it, the very emperor Haile Selassie II.  Seated in his royal majesty.  Hail HIM!  And we had no choice than to hail him.  We paid homage to H.I.M, HIM.  We have photos to show for it.

We would then move around the hall where lots of historical literature was posted on poster boards.  Another part of the corridor round the main hall showed the historical account of Ethiopia, from King Solomon to the Queen of Sheba, who not-surprise, not-surprise was one of King Solomon's wifys.  Yes!  That is how Ethiopia links to the big picture of creation, Eden, Adam and Eve.

We even had an occasion of visiting the basement of HIM's hall, to see a different type of history, as we looked through the cells and the dark history of Ethiopia.  The documents, videos and pictures displayed on those former holding cells at the basement level did not have any kind words for Derg, the military council, and Mengistu Haile Mariam, the president in 1977-1991.  If anything, he was convicted to serve a life sentence in Ethiopia despite being in exile in Zimbabwe.  They are just waiting for him to come back to Ethiopia to serve his sentence.

At another separate but nearby building with a big hall, the Banquet Hall.  At this hall we came face to face with Emperor Menelik II, another one of the great kings that has Ethiopian history written all over him.  And he was there.  Right there at the head of the big hall.  I saw him seated.  I took a photo with him, next to him.  I hailed him, but unfortunately this was not HIM.  And when we talk about a big hall, we are really talking big!  As big as half a football field.

After that visit we walked around the roads.  We then saw Sellasie's vintage car displayed right there, outside his throne house hall for all to see and admire, but not touch, since it was encased in a glass covering.  The tour was so far so good and we were already tired.  I had tracked my movements on the app and we had covered just over 5km since the time we got through that gate.  


We took a lunch break.  By then Sharon had already found her way into the park and even joined our party by the time we were paying homage to the two kings, sorry emperors.  The three ladies and I took seats at the small restaurant just next to the emperor’s palace, Menelik II’s palace.  The palace that we did not visit since extra Birrs were needed for the ‘extended’ tour to include a walk into the pace.  This extended tour was not in our ‘regular’ package.  The palace was just next to the emperor’s throne house.  

We sat at the traditional stools at one of the corners of the restaurant and ordered soft drinks and some Ethiopian lunch.  I qualify it as ‘Ethiopian lunch’ since I still do not understand why they even call it ‘lunch’.  It looked more of a snack to me.  They bring a big flat tray layered with a thin white big circular wafer that they call injera.  

Onto that soft wafer, the injera, they put on it some little portions of spices of all manner, then some little veggies on one of the corners of the injera and that is about it.  You then start tearing off the injera as you dip it into the spices and veggies.  Tearing through from the end, as you go towards the centre.  You literally eat the container base as you go towards completion at the centre.  At least we had some tibs, aka fried meat that is eaten from atop a charcoal-heated clay pot.

After the lunch, we had our coffees on those small cups.  The content is hardly 50ml.  We put onto the coffee some rue leaves (Ruta) to spice it up.  We let the bitters sink in for a moment before we took a sip.  We loved the flavoured coffee.  Rose hated the flavoured coffee.  It takes time to get into Ethiopian ways.  She was adjusting too slowly.  We contributed about 400 Birr per person and gave the collection of money for the lunch and tipping.  I was now realizing that giving tips was the way of life.  I even remember having tipped when using a ‘free’ washroom in this same place.  

Thereafter, we moved just next to the restaurant to an adjacent open stall where a prominent sign was hanging on a mid-post within the hut, “Make your own injera”

I pointed to that direction as we were handwashing in the washrooms, “Is that for real?”
“Oh my God, yes!,” Sharon responded, almost jumping up excitedly.
“Do you know how to make injera?”
“On my God, of course yes!  No Ethiopian girl not know making injera”
“Can you make injera now?  Here?”
“No, me not ready now.  I only make with teff that me prepare, not any.  Oh my God, no.”
That is when Rachel came to the rescue, “Me, I make injera even now.  Want to see?”

Of course, yes!
“Yes, sure,” I responded, as the four of us moved into the small hut.  

We sat on the low stools while Rachel talked to the lady in charge of the cooking pot, sorry, cooking pan.  Soon the metallic pan that is about half-metre in diameter became the centre of attention, as Rachel first started by cleaning the hot pan with some oil put on some cloth.  She let the oil-dried pan to heat up for a minute or so, before she poured the teff flour that had already been premixed in water to form a paste, onto the pan.  

She then poured the paste in a circular motion, starting from the centre progressively moving towards the edges of the big pan.  She was soon done, and it was now a matter of waiting for the cooking to take place.  I did not see much of how the cooking was taking place.  I just saw the white paste remain white, but it kind-a solidified into a big circular white soft wafer, the injera.  The injera was then scooped off the pan with a woven plate and set forth onto a big plate on our table, ready for our next action.

“Wow, I did not know that it can be done that easily,” Rose spoke for the first time in many minutes.  I believe the Ethiopian experience was still overwhelming.
So, we sat and started eating.  It is only Sharon who did not make any move towards the injera that had been laced with a thin layer of butter for the expected sweetness effect of a freshly baked injera.

“Hey, Shayy, join into the injera feast!,” I reminded her, a layer of injera in my mouth.
“Oh my God no!  Today be Friday, and me not take no milk on Fridays.”

I had come to know Sharon as the only true Christian in Ethiopia.  The only true Orthodox that I had met.  She takes no animal products on Wednesdays and Fridays, and fasts for more than half the year at various times during the 13-month Ethiopian calendar.  That girl is going straight to heaven when the trumpet sounds.  The rest of us need grace and are likely purgatory-first candidates.

We then moved around to the zoo within the park, the Unity zoo.  We saw the animals in captivity, including lions, cheetahs, zebras, antelopes (nyala, impala, kudu, eland, wildebeest, gemsbok), meerkat and ostriches.  We even walked through the aviary and saw the birds (greater flaming, Guinea fowl, crane, ibis, gull, moorhen, white-faced duck, weaver, francolin, egret, spoonbill, turaco, hornbill, starling, heron), that are living within the grounds and environs of that giant structure that stretches almost ten metres into the sky.  

After that we were just to pass by some traditional houses that depict various cultures (Tigray, Somali, Harari, Oromia) before we were already being reminded by the many staffers on the park that it was time to get out.  It was already past five.  The exit party included one or two couples with their wedding gowns.
Yod Abyssinia

Part 2
The day was far from over.  The four of us drove back to our residential place.  They dropped Rose and I at our hostels.  Rachel and Sharon decided to stick around by going to their office to do some work since we were soon having another event set for six.  I however knew the better of this timing when the girls decided that they would be having a ‘make up meet up’ before we go.

I did not even bother to call the girls before seven.  And when I used WhatsApp to call Rose at seven, she said a casual, “we are about through, give us another ten minutes.”
I gave them thirty and we finally congregated at Rachel’s white Mazda at seven-thirty.

We drove through the roads and ended up at a place that was very familiar.  I knew it even before we disembarked.  This was Yod Abyssinia Cultural Restaurant.  I had been there before, twice or even thrice.  It never disappoints.

The place was however not as full as I have seen it before, when you can hardly get a seat.  This time round the four of us identified a seating area at one end of the wall, almost facing the main stage.  There was already a performance on stage.  There were five instrumentalists.  Three harpist, a drummer and a flutist.  They were seated.  A soloist was standing in front of them, on the well-lit stage.  He sang.  They played.  Their music was of the Arabic inclination.  It was soft and went well with the atmosphere.  Occasionally some four ladies and four gentlemen, either singly or in groups would dance in front of the soloist.

We ordered drinks or rather, the hosts ordered the drinks and they were brought to the table.  There was a 700ml bottle of that sweet yellow drink, tej.  They set it on the table.  They also set some sodas on the table.  Some wine glasses were passed around, with none to me.  

A small conical flask of about 300ml volume was setup in front of my sitting position.
“Tej for president Obama,” Rachel announced.
“But... but... but...,” I tongue-tied about, not sure of what to say.
“Not worry, we also help you, not worry.”
Another two conicals were brought and set forth on the table.

It did not take long before another colleague, Mary, joined in, following almost momentarily by her colleague George.  The table of six was now fully loaded.  The drinks continued.  The music continued.  The crowds continued to get in, and get out, but mostly get in.  The place kept getting swollen.  The music started getting louder.  We soon went for a buffet dinner by just walking behind our seating area, picking plates and filling up.  

I did not see much of anything familiar, though there were many different small pots with many different things.  However, injera which is now a constant part of our menu, was there – brown, white and even a brown-white mixed version.  The rest were just veggies, spices, other stuff, other things, some more other food items, and finally.... some raw mincemeat.  I picked some injera, some veggies and was back to my seat.  George ordered some tibs to be brought to our table on that charcoal heated claypot.  Our dinner could not have been complete without coffee.

At some point the soloist at the stage tried to rendition the ‘jambo bwana’ song, making a complete mess out of it.  Rose and I, and even Rachel who was becoming Kenyanized, tried to join in and correct the soloist, but he would hear nothing of it.  Surely, who sings ‘Ethiopia nchi nzuri’ to a ‘Kenya nchi nzuri’ song?  Just talking about how the real lyrics should be, nothing else.

Then the dancers started taking break from the stage and started joining the revelers at their table locations for some jig.  Two or three such sessions of the dancers come up to our table to call us out of our seats for dances involving vigorous shoulder an upper body movement.  This did spice up the evening before we finally called it a night.  It was just a few minutes to midnight as we stood to leave.  Just when we thought we were going home....

HIM (His Imperial Majesty) Haile Selassie

Part 3
We got into two cars.  Rachel’s car had Sharon, Mary and I.  George’s car had Rose in it.  We drove and drove and drove.  Twenty minutes or so later and we were not getting anywhere back to the hostel blocks where I thought we should be getting to in such a timeframe.  What was going on here?  Where the hech are we going?

“We arrive, get out of car,” Rachel finally announced, as she started looking for some parking space.
George was just behind us, also looking for a parking space.  I do not know Addis, especially in this dead of the night.  I therefore did not know where we were.  I just followed the crowd.

We got into an elevator at the adjacent building, with an operator minding the elevator doors.  He closed them after we were in, pressed a button and were wheeled up to some floor, I guess the sixth.  The door opened to let in a gush of loud club music.  We had just entered a boom-twaf world, the door at the entrance reading ‘Midtown Ultra Lounge’.  We squeezed through a body-packed club floor as we looked out at where we could find a standing space.  Seating was already out of the question.  

We moved to the very extreme end of the room, just next to Buddha, who was seated in his bronze majesty, eyes gazing straight and down at us.  We looked back at Buddha, said nothing and took a table.  He looked straight at us, kept sitting in medication, and also said nothing.  

The six of us stood round the circular table in the semi-dark room.  We could just make out the height of the table.  Talking was out of the question with the volume of music that had engulfed the hall.  We just nodded along as we gestured.  Bottled water was served at the middle of the table, just before our troubles started...

The waiter soon brought to our table some small glasses on a rack.  Each small glass was about 10ml or maybe my gaze was starting to fade?
“We are doing shots,” someone struggled to shout on the table.  It was hardly audible.
We gestured in the matter of ‘What’?
George pointed at the glasses in the middle of the table and gestured in a manner of ‘take and drink’.
Everyone took a small glass, apart from Mary.  She waved a no.  She could have been useless saying the word ‘no’, with all the music going on.

Soon there was an happy birthday song going on in the hall as it got louder with a cake being brought to the next table.  The cake and candle flares took the attention of the room for a second and they DJ loudly wished some random name a happy birthday, some girl’s name.  

We did not even have time to admire the cake before the DJ put an end to the birthday event and continued the real hits.  People danced around their tables.  In fact, it is the standing and the dancing that kept us sober.  Any seating and being docile for even a minute could have reminded the legs that they were already being flooded with alcohol laden blood and for sure the legs would have already given way by now.

It was not long before George called for another gesture at the small glasses in the middle of our table.  That was not to be the last.  They just kept coming.  I just lost count and let what happens happen.  Who even came up with the deceit that taking a drink in one gulp is a good idea?  Get it from me, it is a bad idea ab initio.  The drink ‘shots’ the centre of your brain and you almost lose consciousness for a minute.  You stay drunk, only for them, that is George and group, to ‘shot’ you again.... and again.... and again....

It was at three when Mary called the three on the table ‘out of order’ to directed them to the lift.  By then we had each thrown a bunch of notes onto the middle of the table.  The amount, a thousand Birr per person, having been communicated through gestures since talking was not possible with all that music.  

Two of our members had already disappeared into thin air.  First it was Sharon who had slipped out quietly when ‘the drinks finally caught her’, hardly one-hour after our arrival, leaving the five of us to test our endurance.  Later on, even George, the shot-man had had enough and disappeared.  Only four people were left standing when the time came to do the counting past three.  Mary directed the three of us to the exit and to the lift area.  The lift operator was still there.  He opened the lift door, let us in, and closed the door.  He pushed a button and the vehicle moved down.

When we got to the parking yard, Rachel went straight to the back seat.
“I not drive in this state,” she declared resignedly.
“President, now you see why I no drink?,” Mary looked in my direction as she got onto the driver’s seat, while I opened the co-driver’s seat and took a seat.  Rose joined Rachel in the back.  The only reason I was still walking was because of the three hours of standing and dancing.  Otherwise, I should have collapsed by now.

We started driving around.  The roads were deserted.  In fact, we did not encounter even one single vehicle either going in our direction or opposite.  We drove around for about fifteen minutes then dropped Rachel at her place.  We lit her body full headlights as we waited for her to get in.  The lights were on her as she knocked the gate for over five-minutes to wake up the watchman.  Her gate was finally opened, and we bid her goodnight, more of good morning.

Mary directed the Mazda smoothly to the hostel blocks.  It was just past 3.30am when we got out of the car and headed to our hostel.  I affixed the ‘do not disturb’ sign on the external of the door, on the handle.  I was not letting the cleaners disturb my sleep, and when I talk about disturb, I mean disturb.  The cleaners ambush the room just before eight!  Who knocks a hostel door before eight?  Surely!!  

And the cleaners usually just knock once, and if there is no answer then they proceed and use their master key to open and get in.  I have been found in bed on several occasions, when I just realize there is someone in the room in the name of cleaning.  The sign would put a break to that disturbance.  Breakfast was not happening for on this Saturday morning, nor was the planned electric train ride arranged by Sharon going to take place.  This one I had just cancelled by SMS at this late night, thanks to the same Sharon for having given me an Ethiopian line to use while there.
Unity Park Addis Ababa

Part 4
I was taking a bathroom break around ten on Saturday, when I saw a number of missed calls on WhatsApp, from my phone that was on silent.  They were all from Rose, and there were messages too – “You need to checkout urgently.  They say that the rooms are reserved for incoming guests”

I was meant to be going back to bed, not checking out!  Anyway, rules are rules, and so I hurriedly threw my clothes randomly into the two bags and was soon out of the room in less than five minutes.  I headed to the hostel reception where I found Rose waiting.  The receptionist was glad that I was there.
“Your room be booked for guest he arrive soon,” he said, relief all over his face.
My body was still tired and in need of sleep.

I still had another ten hours before the vehicle to pick me for the airport for the trip back was due.  I therefore still had plenty hours of nothing ahead.  A temporary room is all I needed to enable me take a rest, compile my reports and wait for the evening.  I did that in the new hostel room.  After many hours that went so fast, I finally walked to the restaurant to partake of the last injera before the airport transfer vehicle came for me at 2000hrs as scheduled.  

We left at 2015hours for the short 15-minutes drive to the Bole International airport.  The airport turned out to be busier on this than I had expected.  It took me almost two hours to get my boarding pass.  There was still more waiting minutes ahead before the boarding call came at 2245hrs for the 2315hrs flight back home.......

And now here I was back to the present, one week later, on this Friday, finishing the 17k run in the hot Nairobi sun.

WWB, the Coach, Nairobi, Kenya, Friday, Oct. 14, 2022

Saturday, December 7, 2019

Running at night part 2 - running with memories

Running at night part 2 - running with memories

Lightning does not strike twice, so goes a famous homeland saying, and that is what I was banking on when I re-attempted the Addis campus run.  I even took extra precaution and started the run earlier – at 5.15pm instead of 5.30pm.  I was good to beat the course in good time.

I flagged myself off and started the monotony of the circuit that runs generally on the perimeter of the compound.  I had already known it as a 2km high altitude route, with about half of it being a gently uphill.  I was starting at 2366m above sea level, to a low of 2360m, then finally to a high of 2376m.  With only a 16m height different, the route was not hilly by any definition.  

It was just one of those fairly flat routes.  But let that small difference not cheat you – running at an altitude over 2000m is not comfortable at all.  You just feel something pulling you back.  You apply lots of forward energy to get you going, and you tend to breath heavily.  Your speed is curtailed from start, unless you compensate by additional forward energy.

I would meet few other walkers on the route.  Greetings was the order of the day with every person that I met.
“Salamno!”
“Salamno!,” I replied, as I kept treading the trail.
Some encounters were even conversations, though I tried to keep going at a reduced speed.
“Salamno, you run good.  Very good!”
“Thanks,” I respond as I keep going.
“You extend also to road near gate, you must go to road there.”
“Oh, Ok, I shall try,” I respond while still on the run.  The person I am responding to must now be ten metres behind, walking.
“Be sure go that road,” he shouts to catch my attention, now almost fifteen metres ahead.
“Will do!,” I shout back.
What is this turning into?  A conversation!  Wasn’t it supposed to be a ‘Hi’.

But I am glad that I am even saying Hello.  It can be worse.  It has been worse, as I thought about what happened four months ago…..


When we got to P-10, our dormitory, the sun was still sweet and bright.  There was no way I would miss a run on this evening.  After all, this was a Wednesday – a run day.  While Paul and Eric decided to enjoy their day with the one-month free gym membership, I was on my journey of discovery – exploration of the open roads far from UiS.  

I had mapped my run on Google map and knew how it should turn out, at least on the map.  Unfortunately, I could not have the map while on the run, since I did not have internet connectivity while on the run.  This would not be possible without a local SIM card and data bundles on the SIM.  

Of course, I would have benefitted from the free wifi if I was configured properly on a local SIM, but that was just wishful for now.  I just had the map on computer screen, memory on how it should be, and reliance on good old luck to pull this off.  The map showed the route as being straight enough.  Just a long loop on the tarmac in front of my windows, and that shall be it.  It should be a simple 6km loop – a thirty minutes thing.  Simple!  Do this four times, and I am done.  Simple, I told you.

The time for the run would come.  I would adorn my running kit.  It was five-thirty.  I left and started slowly, past Kiwi supermarket and kept going.  I had now learnt to keep my runs to the side walkways.  And the walkways were available along all the roads, no exception.  

At times, the walkways would get under the roads as a crossing, then get you to the other side.  Other walkways were over the roads.  I would finally get to the main road that I intended.  I was to turn right on this road, which I did, and then kept going on straight ahead.  I soon passed the Clarion hotel on my right and kept following along Madlaveien, the main road to city centre.  

After some underpass that the footpath led me through, I found myself on the other side of the overhead main road.  This was just a road tributary.  The main road that I was running next to started drifting further to my left.  Soon the main road was so far to the left that I could only make it out by the vehicles swishing in the background.  

I kept running and found myself through a residential housing estate.  I was skeptical as to whether I was still on the right path.  This did not seem like a main road, but it was also not blocked in any way.  Wooden-walled houses stood on both side of this deserted tarmac road.  Most of the houses did not have fences.  The few with fences had some short green live fence.

I reduced speed, wondering whether I was still on the right track, but kept going through the estate for another five minutes.  I was quite relieved to finally get out of the residential estate and joined a sideroad next to a main road.  It was even possible that it was the same main road that had disappeared on me.  I was glad to get it, but that did not last.  After about fifty meters, the side road that I was running on seems to just end!  Just like that!  I just noticed it leading to some red strips marked on the tarmac, straight where I was to run.  What is going on here?

Nonetheless, this now red-marked part of the road was still on the side of the road, but not as well defined as the previous side walkways.  The previous sidewalks tended to have a gap, of greenery or otherwise, between them and the main roads.  This was just the road kerb, painted in red strips.  That is where I kept running.  It did not feel right, but I did not see any alternatives for me.  Then another fifty metres ahead and I got to a big roundabout, with large expansive roads all around the big circle.  I turned to the right, just as the road did turn right.  

Then… Then I heard a car hoot behind me, then pass.  I looked at it and did not see anything of concern.  Then another car hooted from behind and I stopped to look at it.  It soon came to a stop just next to my standing position, on this two-lane road.  The passenger on the front seat opened her window, and the driver, on the other side of the car tried to lean over, “No run here. This is highway,” he said.
“So where do I run?”
“Get run path, but no highway.”

I was forced to retreat the one hundred meters back to where the red marks started.  I still did not see the side walkway that would give me a chance to run towards this direction.  Where was it?  Where did I miss it?  I simply could not see how to run towards this direction on the expected footpath since I saw none.  

Not wishing to run myself into some trouble, I decided to just run back to UiS and remap my run from there.  I would also get an opportunity to maybe restudy the route map once more and then re-strategize.  So, I started running back, using the same path that I had taken.  It was a relief to start getting back home – just a reverse of the road that I had already taken.  A simple run back.  I kept running.  

It was now just past six.  The sun was still high and bright.  I kept going.  I met quite a few people on the side path, mostly those on bicycles.  I kept going.  Very few vehicles were on the main road.  I kept going.
“This must be my turn,” I finally told myself, relieved, as I got to the turn.

I turned to my left and kept going.  

I got a “wait a minute” moment, when the road somehow made a turn to the right, hardly two hundred meters after the turn.  My expectation was that once I turned left, I would run generally straight, all the way to Kiwi.  There surely was no right turn anywhere on the road, if I was to retrace my steps rightly.

“Maybe I was too busy running to notice the road profile,” I told myself, “For sure, I had made a turning when I was running to this direction, and that turning must surely be this one.  There was no other turning but this.”

I still kept going, but with lots of doubt in my mind.  The surrounding infrastructure did not seem familiar at all.  Maybe I had not been keen when running through the first time!?  I was running without my specs, but I still wondered why the route seemed different this time round when running back.  

Ten minutes down the road and I would for sure know that I was lost!  This is because this road came to an end and joined another crossroad.  For sure the road to Kiwi had no other junction at all.  It had a roundabout but not a junction.  That was a certainty.  I was lost!

I ran back to the first junction that I took from the main road, and thought that maybe I had turned left too early.  So, I decided to rejoin the highway and continue further down, then take the next left turn, just in case I had taken my first turn too soon.  

I started running down the main road, and soon enough found another left turn.  I took this turn and started another run on this road.  This road would again soon turn slightly to the right, unlike my expectation that it should be continuing straight on.  I kept going, grudgingly, but ten more minutes of run would lead to the same realization that I was lost, again.

So, there I was, lost twice…. but nothing to worry, it was still too bright.  It was hardly six-thirty.  My strategy was to still go back to the highway, rejoin it, and continue with the highway further down and get to the next left turn, just in case I had again turned to my left too soon in the last two attempts.  This third attempt was even more disastrous.  My road just came to an end then turned left into a residential estate!  That was for sure not the turn that I expected to take me back to UiS – no way!  

I therefore ran back to the highway and chanced once more on that first turn that I had taken initially.  Maybe I was just not being observant.  Maybe the road to UiS was just there in plain view, but I was not seeing it.  I once more faced that first turn that I was already lost on anyway, but my mind told me to give it another try.  

I kept running, came to that same turn and ran its full length.  There was no change.  It brought me back exactly where it had brought me the first time – to a cross road which was surely not the road to UiS.  I ran back, now worried.  It was over an hour now.

I had done more than twelve kilometers, yet I was not yet back to my UiS starting point – a starting point that should have just been a 6km circuit.  And now I was surely lost!  Lost in the Arctic circle.  Will I ever be found?  What would my family say?  Will my friends ever know?  These thoughts were now filling my mind.  I was heading towards a panic.

My phone could not load a map to show my position.  I had no idea at all where I was.  I came to a standstill and started looking around, just to see if I could decipher anything familiar.  Nothing came to mind.  I saw a place called Stokka Forum building, and opposite it a church, I guess Lutheran, written Karismakirken.  I was standing next to them now, but I could not recall ever seeing these two when I was coming this direction for the first time.

I now had no choice but to ask someone.  I felt bad about this prospect of asking someone.  I would have preferred to continue looking for the route myself, however long it took.  Nonetheless, there was no use going round and round without any possibility of getting out of this maze.  If anything, I would get more lost.  

I passed besides Stokka and headed towards a compound that looked like a school or sports club of sorts.  There was a big field with children playing.  There was a fence around it.  A footpath ran next to the field.  I saw some gentleman on the footpath heading away from the field, going same direction.  I quickened my walk and soon caught up with him.  I was just about to break the cardinal Norwegian rule of MYOB.  I felt bad about it. 

“Excuse me,” I said when we were walking parallel.
He was taken aback.
“Hello, I was running but I seem lost.  I want to go back to UiS,” I updated him in quick succession.
“Hi,” he hesitated and stopped.
I also stopped.  We did not exchange any handshakes.  We just gauged each other.
“I was running from UiS, and want to go back there.  I seem lost,” I reassured.
“I see,” he continued to gauge me out.  

I looked harmless enough.  Just a Tee-top, a pair of green shorts and the running shoes.  No danger from me here, on this bright daylight.
“Which UiS?”
“University of Stavanger!”
“They are many, which one?”
“The one near Kiwi.  Kiwi supermarket”
“Kiwi are many.  Which Kiwi?”
I was completely lost.  I did not have sense of direction or road names or building names or even localities.
“Main campus… The main University, the big one... Near a tall tower”

He absorbed the new intel.  I could see from his expression that it seemed like bad news awaited.
“You are far,” he finally said, in reflection.  Sympathy forming on his otherwise expressionless face. 
He extracted his phone, “You are here,” he pointed at some place on Google map, “And you are going here,” he pointed at another place.

“Wuuwi!,” I almost shouted.  
I was completely lost!
There was no way I would have got myself out of this quagmire without help.  I immediately realized that I was getting lost further with every attempt that I made in keeping going down the main road.  I immediately knew that my mistake was having missed the correct left turn in the first place.  I had from the onset taken the second left turn, instead of the correct first left turn.  That is why I was now lost… by far.

“You have two ways.  Go back and round, or cross through here, turn left to the main road then turn right on that road.  Keep going until you get to the turn that goes to UiS” he talked, while pointing at the map on the cell.
“Mhh,” I responded, noddingly.
“You sure you will get it?,” he sympathized, visibly.
“Sure.  Provided I get to the roundabout.  Just to that turn and I shall be done.  Thanks a million.”

And as surely as explained, I just crossed through the edge of the playing field, the children and apparent guardians looking at me suspiciously, and got out of that enclosure.  On the other side of the field was the tarmac road where I turned left.  Before long I had seen the main road where I crossed and turned right.  This was the very elusive road that I had already stepped on during my first phase of the run.  

I resumed my running on the sidewalk and it did not take me long to start seeing all the familiar landmarks.  Everything that I expected to see was back – visible in plain daylight!  There it was, the DNB arena.  I remember marveling at its size on my first leg of the run.  ‘Stavanger Ishall’ was next to it, then the building marked DLL.  Even the elusive Clarion was there!  In plain view!!

What a welcome relief to be back to familiar territory!  That final underpass at the roundabout marked my final left-turn that would then take me straight back to UiS on a 2km stretch of road.  I was so charged up, full of adrenalin, when I reached UiS that I had to take an additional dose of another quick 2km circuit around the uni, to finally stop my run with a time of 02.04.48.  The analogue showed 20.87km, while the mobile phone app showed 21.99km.  The app provided a route map of the run.  A map that I would treasure forever as the half marathon that was not meant to be… the lost half… the accidental half...

“Very funny,” I said to myself as I shook my head back to the reality of the moment.  I realized that I was still running the trail round the Addis Ababa campus.  The route was fairly deserted, just these two regular walkers that I overtook severally during the run.  Just the ache of the run at high altitude.  I was now doing the seventh and last loop.  It was dark, just as dark as my Tuesday run.  For a second time, nature had beaten me and forced the dark onto my running path, despite my early start.

I was glad to finally fight the dark path to the finishing line, with my gadgets recording differently:
Endomondo gave me 15.40km in 1.15.09
Runkeeper recorded the run as 16.01km in 1.15.08
The marathoners guide 101 dictates that I pick the maximum time in the shortest distance, so, Endomondo it is.

WWB, the Coach, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, Dec. 5, 2019

Thursday, December 5, 2019

Running at night - dare you?

Running at night - dare you?


“Am I imagining that I imagine a light hitting my face?,” I asked myself, as I stepped carefully, with heavy steps, on the dim trail.

It happened again, a beam tore through my approaching form, just for a moment, then it went dead again.  This caused my second temporary blindness as the rods in my eyes had to readjust from high intensity light to darkness.  I kept going.  I would soon pass by a sentry, hardly visible, apart from his form that could be made out from the side of the now dark and almost invisible trail.
“Salamno,” I say in his direction as I pass by.
“Salamno!”

I am soon gone and face the left turn on the ninety degrees corner of the farmland.  My only worry now is a stumble, which may affect the run completion.  A fall would be worse, as it would spell the end of my run for the day.  I just kept stepping on by faith that all is well.  From the corner, I would run about half a k, to get to the main road that leads in and out of the compound.  I then have to continue making my way through the trail that generally runs around the outer perimeter of the compound.  

This is just my fifth circuit out of the six that I plan to do.  I still have one more of these dark runs to contend with.  However, I am not to blame.  Blame my location.  I surely started the run at 5.30pm, when it was still bright and light.  It just become dark as I started the fourth circuit.  It was hardly 6.10pm when the darkness hit.  I was doing this ‘torch-beam’ circuit hardly ten minutes later on this 2k circuit.  My last sixth would end at 6.38pm.  I had survived over 30-minutes of running in the dark.

Running in the dark has its own share of issues.  To start with, you need to be alert – all senses alert type.  Your eyes are not your only guide.  They are hardly your guide since you cannot see properly.  Your ears are your second most important sense.  You judge your action with what you hear.  Like that apparent movement in the thickets on my left before I met with that beam.  That thicket noise surely meant something.  I was faced with a ‘stop-think-retreat’ or ‘accelerate-think-later’ when I first heard these sounds.  I accelerated, only to get that face load of beam!  

The wild
It was just one day after this Monday run that we were discussing the ‘animals on campus’.  I was all smiles as I saw the presentation on large screen about the other stakeholders that this campus in Ethiopia coexists with.

The list had snakes – that is not strange.  Have vegetation, have trees, have insects, have rodents and that would be the natural predator.  This campus has all these.
“We have rats,” the presenter would say.  
Surely!  That is not something worth talking about when listing animals on campus!  Is a rat even an animal?
“We have jackals, near the field.”
“Did you say jackals?,” I had to reconfirm this.
“Yes, just on the thicket next to the field.”
My experience on that trail next to the field came back to mind.  That must have been it.

We would be provided with the full list of the other animals on campus, those that my Engineering department had to find a place for.  Blue breasted bee-eater, the bird.  A duiker, I had to check that out before I found out what it was.  How about another bird, the Rouget’s rail!  Several tortoises – I had seen these while on previous runs, just grazing next to the trail.  Hooded vultures – no comment on this.  Frogs – this is an animal?  Liars!  White-tailed mongoose.  

A civet – that was another animal that I had not heard of, but there it was projected on the big screen.  Vervet monkey – so that is what that thing is called!?  The list would go on… Green parrot, Honey bees…
“We also have three of the four species of Ibis nesting around the waste water ponds,” the presenter would update us.
I had to look that one up, since that would be quite something.  The real genus for this would therefore be Bostrychia, though my source would indicate five species in this genus.


Back to the run at night, where you must have both your eyes and ears open.  You also need to have your instinct ready and waiting.  The run at night is also likely to be faster since your adrenalin is likely to be elevated ready for ‘anything’.  However, this also means that your stress level may be unnecessarily high during and immediately after the run, hence you need to know how to deal with it.  Just finish your run and get something to relax you, like a warm bath and a cup of your favourite drink – water can still do.  I finished off with a bath and a glass of warm water, even as my Endomondo gave out the stats as: 
DISTANCE - 13.94 km
DURATION - 1h:08m:10s 

Finally, please note that there is a difference between running-in-the-dark and night-running.

WWB, the Coach, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, Dec. 4, 2019

Thursday, December 21, 2017

Running on red

Running on red

Bahasha
It was a coincidence that I was on a sojourn on my tenth anniversary of work.  I was still on cloud nine due to the certificate that I had received from the ‘topest’, sorry, top-most boss and a rare photo op to crown the moment.  I am not allowed to divulge the details of the ‘bahasha’ nor that this event occurred during the end year staff party, when drinks are served using vouchers, numbers from drink 1 to drink N.  I have observed ‘the N’ increasing by 1 annually in  the last four years, and it was 2 then.  

Then the teetotalers have the 'good habit' of handing over their drink vouchers, hence the trick is just to sit on the same table with them.  That is a story for another day, however.  

Though I was on official business, having a glimpse at the rock-curved churches at Lalibela or even celebrating Christmas on January 18 was something that I would have wished to experience.  This did not happen but I was invited for a different experience two days after my arrival...

“We go for lunch at six-thirty,” Rehma said, just to remind me of my time schedule as I excused myself to move around and greet folks.

I completely understood her.  Amharic is like Kiswahili.  The number system that is.  With it as the national language, the users tend to first think about issues in Amharic, then translate to English.  Lunch at six-thirty was lunch at ‘saa sita-na-nusu’ in Kiswahili.  Just the right time for lunch – 30 minutes after ‘sita’, six.

Driver
I jumped on to my seat, and… and was surprised that it was the driver’s seat!.  The apparent left-side front door was actually the driver’s position!.  In Kenya our drivers sit on the right of the vehicle, hence my subconscious entry to the left side of the car.  I got out, the joke on me, and walked round the vehicle to take my seat at the front right - where I properly belonged, before the driver of the left-hand-drive got in and took off.

My mind kept playing tricks on me throughout the drive, and was quite fearful whenever we were approaching oncoming traffic.  My Kenyan mindset on a keep-left driving system was so confused when keeping-right.  I severally covered my face in fear, thinking that we are continuously overtaking and the oncoming vehicle shall be crashing us head on!

We left the employer premises and joined the main A2 road at Gurd Shola by turning right.  The oncoming traffic was on my left, on the side of the driver.  A roadside sign confirmed that ‘Ayat 5km ahead’ was our general direction.

“I hope to take a ride on that,” I pointed to the railway in between the two roads.
“Oh, that, the electric train?”
“Yes, the train”
“I have not been in it myself,” Ayele the driver confirmed, paused, then,“Rehma, have you?,” he asked, looking slightly back to draw her attention on the back seat.
“No.  Not me.  It usually is full.  Can’t get space.”

Train
Momentarily, a sound of machinery became apparent, and soon there was a train slithering slowly on my left, going towards where we had come from.  It was observably full, but only two coaches were being pulled along.

“Why do they have only two coaches, when there are so many people?,” I queried.
“This government,” Ayele started.  I noted over time that he had issues with the government, “Just wasting public funds.  They say the structure not possible to pull more than two trains.”
“I really must use the train,” I said with conviction, “Tomorrow,” I added as an afterthought.
“Just be early,” Rehma volunteered, “And be ready to stand all the way.”
“But, mothers and small children can sit,” Ayele updated, “And you have none of the two for now,” he brought home the joke.

All this chatter allowed us to make our way to a restaurant, famous for mouth-watering cuisines and ….

Our entourage had arrived in four vehicles, each carrying around three.  We ended up having a lunch troop of ten.  We sat on two rows facing each other over three tables, five on either side.  The menu was brought and it was all gibberish to me, Amhara to them.  
“Just delicious.  Perfect,” the group kept commenting as they looked through the menu.
“I can’t decipher anything,” I complained.
“Just wait,” they reassured me.
“Yes,” Adele led the ordering, “Raw meat? Yes? Yes, you shall try some raw meat?,” he looked in my direction.
“I don’t think so,” was my protest, “But let me see.”

The known
Let me start with the part that I know.  Some small cooking stove, made of clay ‘was served’ to my table of four.  On it steamed some meat.  It was partially cooked by my standards.  It looked red – it seemed to taste raw.  I did not try it.  While my table mates started grabbing onto the top plate-like part of the stove, the rest of the people on the other tables stayed put, patient and unmoved.  I was also unmoved.  We all allowed the first three to have a go.

A second stove was served.  This also had some more meat, but well done by my standards.  I started on this, even as small dishes of chilly was served as supplements.  They called it ‘sauce’.  Different ‘sauces’ were therefore served.  Then some veggies, which I took a taste and gave up on.  It tasted bad and seemed full of cheese – just my judgement – since all on the table enjoyed every bit of it.  

Some ‘injera’ was brought.  Think of a rolled ‘raw chapati’ but throw in some sourness that seems to come from fermentation, and you can try to guess the taste.  I did not like it despite several attempts at it.  Three travels later and I am yet to adapt?.  I give up.

However, the well-done meat was quite good and ‘well done’.  The hot stove with charcoal underneath and small enough in size to fit on a table and still afford us a serving plate on top was quite genius.  You eat steaming-hot meat (roast? with indirect heat?) until the stove has nothing on top, upon which the charcoal burner is removed and a new one brought, full of meat pieces.  Pure genius this hot plate!!

The unknown
Let me now go the part that I do not know.  The other two tables finally got some action, when red raw meat, straight from a butcher-man’s stock, was served.  I could guess that 2 kilos of this raw unprocessed meat was served onto a middle metallic tray.  (I am in the livestock sector and I know weight by sight).  

Each diner was provided with a small plate and a sharp knife.  Besides the meat tray, a secondary tray for injera and sauces was provided.  And let the eating begin!  Just like that!!  They laughed at my facials as I observed them butcher the meat chunks into small pieces, which they proceeded to dip into the sauce and then shove straight to the mouth!  Injera balls accompanied each piece onto the mouth.

“I only take raw meat,” one participant at one of these two tables declared, “I have taken it since I was small and there is nothing in the world like raw meat. Nothing,” he repeated in deep nostalgia and reflection.  The facial expression was perfect confirmation.

Adele pointed a red piece in my direction, “Try this small piece,” the rest paused and watched in apprehension.  Baptism about to take place.
“No way,” I lifted both hands as shield.  I was finally convinced, “Let me stick to roast.”
The tension in the table broke, as the rest exhaled and sighed in relief.  The baptism having flopped.
On his part, Adele just shook his head and threw the piece, after dipping in sauce, into his mouth.  I could see him savoring the deliciousness.  It was evident on him. 

It was only natural that at this point of ‘sticking to roast’ that the discussion of the famous ‘Fogo Gaucho’ Nairobi would feature… but they did not have any kind words for their local FG franchise that they claimed is housed in a five-star hotel, charging five-star prices and… serving five-types of meat… beef, beef, beef, beef and… beef, and in small chunks, they drove the point home.

We finally left the lunch joint and headed back to the work place.

The next day Adele took me for an evening ride on his car, to take his child home and also show me the sites.

On our way back, I finally found out a way to achieve what I wanted, as already planned for the next day.

“Can I borrow your child tomorrow for the train ride?”

WWB The Marathoner, Nairobi Kenya, December 21, 2017